This was my second part 3 mask and it has gotten rave reviews all across the community. A lot of people don't realize how badly crackled the paint on the original part 3 mask was because the smaller details can't be seen on film. It does however appear in photos that were taken on set, including in the best photos of that mask in existence-- the cover to the Final Chapter VHS tape, which shows extensive paint cracking. Anyway, here are a few photos of my version.
The blank is a clear PETG frightstuff. The hock is also bent to look like the one in the film so that I can put it on my display without having the straps squeeze the shit out of it.
This mask takes me about a week to do because the crackle alone is a mind-numbing 3 days work! The rest of it is fairly easy. A lot of guys on the forums have said this is the most accurate part 3 they had ever seen. I concur. And I'm not afraid to say, this is THE most screen accurate part 3 mask since the original one from 1982.
I know this is an old post, but I just have to ask this, since I can't find the answer anywhere else: how do you go about the paint cracking? Any tips or tutorials? Thanks, and great work. Love all your posts and info on these masks.
ReplyDeleteHi, sorry for the delay just saw this. The paint cracking on the above mask was drawn on in pencil. With later masks I actually etched it in with a knife. But if you want to know the secret to perfect natural cracking-- just paint a mask white, then varnish it, and spray a Krylon clear coat over the varnish. Then pull, bend and twist the mask and watch the cracks appear. They will look just like the movie cracks. Don't bend too hard or it will start to flake off. Once you have some cracks in, throw in a thin brown or black wash to make them pop.
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