Thursday, August 27, 2015

1:1 Part III Hero Mask


Painted by me on a P82. I tried to capture every single crack and scuff exactly as it was on the movie mask using the best photos I could get my hands on. Painted this back in 2012 but haven't really taken decent photos until recently.

10 comments:

  1. Ok, been waiting my whole life for this. I want one.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I will probably sell this one someday

      Delete
  2. Wow, stunning work all around! I can't figure out how to do the cracking (apart from using a scalpel to draw every single cracked line). Any tips or advice? Or tutorials even?
    Thanks :)

    ReplyDelete
  3. Thanks guys! Hugo, if you want movie accurate cracks, paint the mask white, then spray it with an oil-based varnish. Once that is dried, use a normal water-based clear coat like Krylon crystal clear. When that has dried, grab the mask and bend it-- HARD. Watch the cracks appear. Bend it horizontally, then vertically. Should look a lot like the movie mask cracks.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Unbelievable... That has to be the best screen accurate part 3 I have seen and I have been analyzing a quite a few to study details and learn myself. I just got into mask painting, have painted two part 3s so far and I'm still having trouble replicating the damage such as along the left eye, around the nose and across the forehead. If I may ask, do you Dremel into the base coat or directly into the mask itself before the base coat? I see there is a varnish for the cracking effect, but is that applied first followed by damage detail and painting? Grrr...So much too learn. So good man. Excuse me if I ask too many questions haha. Excellent work.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks! I don't dremel into the part 3 mask at all except to do the eye cuts. The scrape marks are usually done with an x-acto knife. If you get a cracking varnish that will go on before any painted-on weathering, since you will use the cracks as a guide and incorporate the weathering into them for a realistic effect. I've also achieved a cracking effect by just spraying krylon clear over Maimieri patina varnish and bending the shit out of the mask. Have fun!

      Delete
  5. Good Morning!

    I would like to congratulate you for the awesome work. I'm from Brazil and my name is David Mota from DMSFX-CREATIONS. I read your articles talking about the technique to create the so famous cracked! I loved it and wanted to know a few things, of course if you can help me. I know it is very difficult to get control over the size and direction of the cracking I am using other techniques and I did not succeed. Basically I know how to paint white on the inside and out the color of an almond or use washes to get the tone. Sorry if I'm writing a lot, but I'm very interested in learning this technique. Lol. I have the Maimieri 746 Vernice vetrifying. I want to know if this is the product mentioned in your description. And after applying it use a water based varnish. right? But here I do not spray a water-based varnish as are acrylic and have the component of the mixture I'm in doubt of achieving any result. If I dilute the water-based varnish a little to spray it too? Or do I have to apply with a brush? And as you did for the cracks to become more apparent, after getting the crack you applied some layer of diluted paint or wax so you could fill the cracked. I hope you can help me.

    Thank you very much for your attention!

    ReplyDelete
  6. Hi David,

    The Maimeri patina varnish is what you want. http://www.dickblick.com/products/maimeri-patina-varnish/

    I haven't successfully cracked a mask with a crackle medium yet, so I can't say for sure how to do it. Will update once I get to that point. If you're going for movie accurate try this:

    1. Basecoat clear mask front and back with white paint
    2. coat the front in 6 to 8 coats of patina varnish with a varnish brush (some say you can also use a sponge brush if good quality)
    3. Apply the maimeri cracking medium (this part is tough, takes a lot of experimenting. Try to get it right on a practice mask first)
    4. You'll have to seal the patina with a polyurethane clear coat--any water-based/acrylic clear will crack uncontrollably. You don't want to deal with that, believe me.

    Not sure I can really answer all your questions, since I've only done a part 4 without the cracks-- try to experiment on a cheap mask. And use a varnish brush rather than a sprayer. Once I get my 3 done, I'll update with a new blog post with more tips etc. Thanks!



    ReplyDelete
  7. Firstly thank you for the feedback. And I want to say that I got a result with a two-product kit. A base varnish and one to crack. But there is no way to control this cracked in a way that looks like the mask of part 3. I know there are techniques to do with pencil, stylus and the real technique that is cracking through varnish and that needs a lot of practice To have a satisfactory result. Because the cracked around the nose and the forehead is in a linear fashion and in the others is half-cracked. I'll try to find this patina that told me and do more tests. I thought you'd done that mask.

    http://jasonlivessince1980.blogspot.com.br/2015/07/closeups-of-part-3-hock-with-hlm.html

    That was the reason I got in touch with you.
    Thanks Again!!!

    ReplyDelete