Sunday, March 19, 2017

Where to Find the Best Movie Mold Blanks

I've been fired up about mask collecting again the last few months and looking for the earliest-generation movie mold replicas that are commercially available. So I figured I'd share the results of my hunt.

I am extremely biased towards movie mold blanks. The earlier generation the better, since a recast of a recast of a recast is going to lose details along the way. So the recommendations I've posted here are the earliest generation of each version I am aware of. For artists looking to create the ultimate hock collection, here is more information than you ever wanted to know about mask blanks.

Part 3 & 4 
JDF Style B
 JDF style A/B masks are actually descended from a recast of a mask likely made during production of Friday the 13th part 3. As far as I am aware, they are the only commercially available masks to descend from an original part 3 movie mask. That said--ReelFX didn't do a great job recasting, so the piece JDF had to work from was shrunk and deformed. Which is why Crash's part 3 masks are the probably most film accurate you can get. For anyone unfamiliar, he used very specific instructions from Doug White, who made the masks for the film and began the process with a vintage Plante mask. I've also seen a measurement of a production mask that shows the size of Crash's masks are dead on. He doesn't sell blanks, but he does sell a cheaper, minimally weathered version. More or less a blank, amirite?

Part 5

David Miller, who made the masks for Friday the 13th part 5, claims to have the original film buck in his possession. He has an ebay account (elmoscave) where he sells copies from this buck. Even casual observers will note, however, that there are quite a few distortions and misplaced vent holes that suggest if this is the movie buck, it had been badly repaired at some point. There are other artists with great part 5 masks, but I know of none that have any lineage to an original part 5 mask. [Sad face].

Part 6
Fiberglass 6 sells the only blanks that descend from an actual part 6 movie mask (other than the terribly bloated Forsche recasts). The mask they recast came from Justin Mabry, who told me via Facebook that his source was a mask that came off the part 6 movie buck. So they essentially sell 2nd gen recasts of a 6 mask. The Fiberglass 6 preserves virtually all of the features of the movie mask, with the exception of the vent divots. It also measures 8.5 x 10 inches, the same dimensions as part 6 production masks, per measurements I asked of two different movie mask owners. So all around a near-perfect reproduction.

Part 7
Beyond Disgusting Studios sells 2nd gen recasts of the part 7 hero mask. Crystal Lake Industries does as well, using the same mold. Fear Factory Studios also sells via eBay a slightly more hi-fidelity mask that preserves the "tooth" of the prop damage and some other tiny details of the movie mask, for especially discriminating collectors. Note: I wouldn't recommend vac pulls of the part 7-- only a fiberglass pull preserves the details on the front of the mask.

*Update 5/5/17: Evidently FFS has passed the mold onto Tim Jones, who is expecting to sell copies soon. 

Here is a quick flow chart showing the recast family tree of part 7 masks...  I consider the movie mask the source, not generation 1, but you get the idea:
Chart by Frankie Spradlin

Part 8

Beyond Disgusting Studios also sells 2nd gen recasts of the part 8 hero mask. Ditto for Crystal Lake Industries. A clear vac pull is the most accurate way to capture the movie mask construction, but a fiberglass pull will better capture the eye cuts, chevrons, scrapes and other fine details on the front of the mask.

Jason Goes to Hell
Fiberglass JGTH sells first gen recasts of a production mask from this film. The handfull of 3D-printed custom HSS Hell hockey masks that are out there are from my scan and print of this particular mask. If you are an HSS Hell owner hit up Crash or Auz for a custom-fitted mask in movie-accurate black ABS.

Jason X
Fiberglass X

I'm told the movie masks were fiberglass, so you can't go wrong with Fiberglassmasks version, although I don't know if it has any lineage to the movie mask.

Jason vs Freddy
Fiberglass VS

NECA made a run of movie-accurate fiberglass masks recast from a production pull. You can find them on eBay periodically. Fiberglassmasks also sells a 2nd gen casting of this mask.

JDF remake

The movie masks were fiberglass, so if you're picky about materials, pick up an old NECA on eBay or get a blank from Fiberglassmasks. Or, if you are picky about perfecting your eye cuts and want an undrilled blank, JDF sells a really thick ABS version. All three options descend from production masks.


  1. Sorry if this is off topic, do you have to spray the patina on or can you wipe it on?

    1. you can brush it on with a paint brush but its tough to control because of the contours of the mask, would not recommend

    2. Hey just to update this, an artist I know had success with using a sponge brush and layering up the patina. You might need 12 to 15 coats to get the right tone but its worth it. Going to try it myself shortly.

  2. Gotcha, this stuff is expensive from what Ive found. Too much to justify to just use once

  3. Also jdf claims to have their part 7&8 both descended from 7&8 movie molds

  4. According to JDF (and verified by Beyond Disgusting Studios), JDF actually uses Beyond Disgusting Studios part 7 & 8 blanks. If you contact JDF for a part 7 & 8 blank he tells you that he doesn't sell them, and to contact Beyond Disgusting Studios for a blank.

  5. In reply to the questions about the patina:
    Almost a year later, I'd like to chime in with some thoughts; layering with a brush (VERY lightly thinning the patina with turpentine to make it useable and to keep from seeing brush strokes in the varnish) works fine in principle, but the layers take a long time to dry properly (think between 6-8 hours), so unless it's just a hobby, it's not very viable.
    This does, however, mean you can make do with fewer layers as you can make them thicker without getting a semi-runny goop dripping off the mask (provided you don't go overboard with the turpentine).

    Also of note, I wanted to make a more aged looking mask, so instead of a slightly off-white basecoat, I took the Corax White primer from the Citadel range (any Warhammer geek will know that name), which leans towards a grey more than a white.
    Pair that with the patina, leave the mask under a blacklight for a while (or direct sunlight if you're a daredevil and it isn't the middle of summer), and presto : a mask that looks old, dirty and yellow-grey, without the extra effort of washes or inks (and the inconsistencies those can produce).

  6. So why does the Fiberglass Masks Jason Lives mask not have a pronounced brow area and high nose bridge like the actual screen used masks if it's descended from the production masks?